And of a time when a great rally of vintage Fiat 500s - 50, 60, perhaps more - streamed past tooting their optimistic horns as the sun glinted off the frescoed yellow hand of Christ on the exterior wall of the cathedral. Virgil called Como 'the greatest lake', and Pliny the Younger had a villa here where he said the porch was 'always like spring'. And that one to a Neapolitan barone who has come and gone discreetly for a decade. Ricardo keeps up a purling commentary - that one belongs to the 17-year-old daughter of a Russian oligarch who likes to play on a Steinway and who turns up now and again at parties, blonde hair streaming down her back, looking bored. 'Cremona: violins,' he starts, 'Pavia: the old university. Hotel review: Mandarin Oriental hotel, Lake Como, Italy By Charlie Burton 31 August 2019 This new opening represents the arrival of the first luxury hotel group on the lake outthere.travel — The lakeside getaway of Milan’s (and, in fact, the rest of the world’s) rich and famous, Lake Como is a place where nobility and unparalleled style run deep in the water, in the blood of its people, and in its palatial villas. Villa Ponti Bellavista was advertised in the UK’s leading travel magazine, Condé Nast, in their April, May and June 2020 editions. So is the Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina. In Menaggio on the western side, with its spruce lido, you gaze on Bellano over on the east, with its museum for old gramophones. Both of us have been hard at work spreading the word on how Lake Como is really the only choice when it comes to your destination wedding – with the fabulous scenery, dreamy villas, divine food and superb weather all wrapped up in a perfect package of romance and … Nobody trying to force you on bus tours. Glinting behind a wall, a mossy statue of Ceto, the goddess of ocean dangers. Style on the water. It’s classy, but not stuffy. That one to Berlusconi. As the cathedral bells pound, Lucia leads us through the back streets, past handsome violinists busking on via Plinio, and window dressers unwrapping the new season's pale fur wraps from boxes in the boutiques along via Francesco Muralto. It's worth coming to eat - just-caught fish; tomatoes from the hotel gardens - even if you don't stay, but there is something particularly authentic about this side of the lake and it would feel a shame to not sleep here too. Ad Choices, The ‘King’ of Lake Como Shares Where to Go On and Off the Water. Welcome to CN Traveller. Condé Nast Traveller Awards 2020: For 8th year, Khyber Gulmarg wins favourite boutique hotel Share Gulmarg: In a major development in Kashmir’s hospitality industry, TheKhyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, Gulmarg, has won the award for the Favourite Boutique Hotel 2020 at the tenth edition of the Condé Nast … In Attack of the Clones, the young Anakin Skywalker woos Princess Padmé, both of them in a daze, brains blasted by the snow-topped, sprawling green of the mountains all about, and the clusters of pretty gardens nearby. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. Above him on a gate, a jewel-collared Siamese cat, its blue eyes impersonated by the shutters of its villa, dangles its paw, as though lazily catching both sound and fragrance. Ladies at the lavanderia steam white tablecloths all day long, puffing out their cheeks, while children gather on the steps of Jimmy Choo two doors down, sharing slices of pizza. Hotels have always been intrinsic to Como. TRIAL OFFER: 3 Issues for £1. This site uses cookies to improve your experience and deliver personalised advertising. In the morning, breakfast of Sicilian cannolis and iced espresso is taken as the sun starts its journey across the lake, settling on a flower-plumed promontory beyond. Someone is swimming off the private pontoon with one eye idly on Clooney's villa over the water, shuttered and surrounded by what looks like a mini forest. The water in this spot is fantastically cold. But that's the point of Como: it's a polite and ordered place. Getting to Lake Como: British Airways (britishairways.com) flies from Heathrow to Milan, from where you can take the train to Como Town. Any information published by Condé Nast Traveler is not intended as a substitute for medical advice, and you should not take any action before consulting with a healthcare professional. Day 2: Lake ComoWhen you’ve got your fill of Milan’s fashion, culture, and culinary scene, wake up early and get ready for a spectacular day by Lago di Como. By anybody's standards, it is the very definition of a grand hotel, its gleaming 16th-century corridors lined with antique prints of mail-coaches and hunts. No casinos. She presents the Film Programme on BBC Radio 4. Read on for the list of Condé Nast Traveler’s top 30 spas in the world and their reader ratings: 1. I swear it’s delicious.”. Condé Nast Traveller's Gold List 2021 rounds up classic hotels from around the world and 'provides inspiration and authoritative critiques for discerning travellers on where to stay'. Read Condé Nast Traveller's free travel guide with information about where to visit, where to eat, where to stay and what to do in Italian Lakes, Italy. The 8 Best Luxury Hotels on Lake Como The Best Luxury Hotels on Lake Como for Romance. Stampedes of ichthyocentaurs wreathed in vines. The best game to play on an afternoon in Como is to hire a boat and follow the shores, bingeing on the villas. George Clooney is probably the most all-out exciting thing to have happened here since Mussolini was shot by partisans in 1945 in the village of Giulino di Mezzegra. No nightclubs to speak of. Daniela’s love for this lesser-known lake in northern … Touring Lake Como in northern Italy by boat (like this vintage wood launch hired in Cernobbio) is the best way to see the many grand villas and historic towns that line its shores. Her eyes, green as spring lichen, remind me how close we are to Switzerland. With just nine suites (all with views over the lake) and accessed sharply from Como's one road, this place feels definitively private, set apart, very much on its own picturesque high pinnacle hanging over the water. For a more historic feel, there’s the grand Villa d’Este in Cernobbio or the sweet Hotel Rusall in Tremezzina.”, House and Garden“The 18th-century Villa del Balbianello in Lenno is magnificent; Casino Royale was shot there. I’ll have a fresh crudo lunch and then wander the grounds.”, Café Culture“The best espresso and croissants, not just in Italy but in the world, are from Pasticceria Poletti in Cernobbio.”, The Bring Back“For leather belts and bags, I like L’Arte di Modellare Il Cuoio in Como. And in the distance, the small figures of pedestrians idling towards Lenno, with its busy public park where a family of terrapins live in a fountain featuring a gorgeous nymph carved in the style of a Tantardini. The top spa on the list was Ananda in the Himalayas, in Narendra Nagar, Uttarakhand, India, with a rating of 99.6, followed by Lake Austin Spa Resort with a rating of 98.95. Moveable screens on the balconies transform each bedroom into a super-private, inside-outside den. Villa Oleandra in Laglio! Eventually, Ricardo drops me off in the village of Torno. As the late afternoon light flits through its shades of oyster, we pass the real treasures of Como, even closer to the shore: the countless ingeniously carved hidden grottos, the boat houses and mysterious octagonal maritime follies covered in shells. That here is Italy, but almost not. This one coloured a dusty orange, another grey as a kitten. In Nesso you consider Toriggia, where Bellini preferred to stay. The drive from Milan to Como was about an hour and a half long, and fairly monotonous, until we began our ascent up the hills. Condé Nast Traveller. In the more northern towns along the lake - where the water still doesn't quite freeze in winter - strudel is served in cafés, and wherever you are, whatever the month, the sense of zinging healthfulness hits you in the face, powerful as a streetlamp. Address: 40 Via Regina, Cernobbio, Italy Telephone: +39 031 3481 Website: villadeste.com Price: Double rooms from about £500. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement (updated as of 1/1/21) and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement (updated as of 1/1/21) and Your California Privacy Rights. With thanks to models Gianluca Albonico and Vittoria Camarra from Why Not; Francesca at Cantiere Nautico Matteri Erio for the Riva speedboat, and Aero Club Como, the sea planes school in the world for help with the aerial shots. The whole place is fun and clever. Two hikers sit on Thirties wooden benches waiting to be deposited 720 metres up to walk the stony mule track towards San Maurizio, their eyes closed, enjoying the creeping afternoon warmth taking the chill off the mountains. Forget Lake Como: These are the dreamiest spots for a destination wedding By Rebecca Misner 13 December 2018 The choice of destination for your wedding need not be a run-of-the-mill beach or palace resort, but a charming tented getaway in Mexico, or a remote villa retreat in Morocco surrounded by exotic … Mark Twain wrote fondly about the bad English translations on the printed cards he collected when staying here in the 1860s. That the climate in Como is never too hot, never too cold. Then, villa on villa. Non succede mai niente a Como? The view down is of private gardens and hidden porticos and small pools, vines slung amateurishly over terrace dining tables, and great swags of fig. Print + Digital And the lake. 'This hotel and most superb is handsome locate, do offer all commodities…', A Lake View Prestige room at Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Places To Stay. It's the deepest lake in Italy and an unusual shape: a sprawling, upside down Y, with villages and villas strung along its shore, some converted into magnificent hotels, some private homes of huge neoclassical dimensions from the Grand Tour era of Shelley and Boswell. Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Lake Como. LAKE PLACID – Condé Nast Traveler has announced the results of its 31st annual Readers’ Choice Awards with the AAA Four Diamond Mirror Lake Inn Resort and Spa in Lake Placid, N.Y. recognized as the #1 resort in New York State and #2 in the combined New York/mid-Atlantic region. Condé Nast Traveler may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. My first evening at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, the terrace is filled with people dancing after a party. Condé Nast Traveller, launched in 1997, has been at the vanguard of a new age of exploration and luxury travel. So is the little island of Comacina—it has just one restaurant, the Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, which serves beautiful lake trout. Many buildings rise from the remains of pre- medieval convents or the gilded palaces of princes and bishops. Many adore Bellagio - between the two southern branches of the lake - where old women in black crêpe carry baskets of dried porcini down cobbles and smart couples fuss over pugs at Bar Rossi on the waterfront, spruce waiters dispensing espressos like pharmacists. Lake Como, located in the Province of Lecco in Lombardy,is surrounded by … Only on Como. 'I loved that there were no pushy diversions. Ricardo says he likes to imagine they belong to warring siblings, unable to settle on its fate. Boutique Hotels. Antonia Quirke is contributing editor to Conde Nast Traveller UK. The lake has captured the imaginations of the great and the good ever since the Romans first adopted it as a holiday spot. Others champion Varenna, on the eastern shore, founded in the sixth century and still with its ancient layout, its raised boardwalks and balustrades, its shop windows full of white lace nightgowns so modest they might belong to an Edwardian schoolgirl. When the great romantic novelist Rosamunde Pilcher (whose grandson took the photographs for this piece) visited in the 1970s she was escaping from a book tour in Milan. The Lake Como–based boatyard was founded in 1771 to transport the area’s gray limestone to Milan for the construction of the Duomo. Mantua: the Gonzaga family. Your one-stop shop for all the carry-on essentials, tech gear, travel-sized beauty products, and luggage that will make you an even better traveler, delivered weekly to your inbox, Plan Now, Go Now: Where to Stay in Lake Como, Plus Reasons to Rethink San Diego. The grandest place to stay on the lake, it seems to occupy its own island next to the sweet village of Cernobbio, where the mundane sits so perfectly hugger mugger with luxury - the hardware shop selling seed packets of borlotti beans and crimson bougainvillaea opposite a lingerie shop frothing with eye-watering silk. She presents the Film Programme on BBC Radio 4. Later, hurrying to catch a water taxi, I pass the funicular railway on the edge of town. Beyond is Villa Làrio, a small hotel with an external lift hugging the sheer cliff down to the water for its handful of guests. 'E quella di chi è?' 'Oh, Milan,' Lucia grumbles. A touch of Budapest and Paris and Vienna; high corridors and ceremonious butlers, and - seemingly perpetually parked outside - a Seventies Alfa Romeo Duetto Spider in the same damson red as the velvet in the bar. ... Il Sereno hotel, Lake Como: exclusive review. Antonia Quirke. The panoramic views around this hotel, on the shore between Lenno and Griante, melted even Darth Vader's heart. See reviews, photos, directions, phone numbers and more for Conde Nast locations in Lake … 'A perfect Lake Como day is to leave the shore for a while and drive up the winding roads to the mountains, where there are views across the huge expanse of water that are quite breathtaking. Down on a pontoon on the waterfront beyond the railway, a 50-something sailor leans over the side of his taxi, his indolence so perfectly poised it's like a cinema projector has stopped mid-scene, holding him perpetually in dark glasses and peaked cap. Rounding a corner, the waited-for chef, flushed in his striped trousers, hurries past me on his way to work, a giant courgette in one hand and a bunch of basil in the other. (it's not hard to get a compliment on a blue day in Italy). Built in 1568 as a summer residence for a wealthy cardinal with a passion for art, the hotel has an immense 17th-century shelled grotto, decorative gardens lapped by water so clear you can see pebbles fall to the distant bottom, and chefs in high white hats inspecting the engraved glass on bridal tables. For the music!' You can opt out at any time or find out more by reading our cookie policy. Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Lake Como. Image Gallery of lake como Here’s how much it could cost to rent Deepika and Ranveer’s wedding venue Yes, you can visit Deepika … One morning I wander through Como Town on the lake's southern tip with my teenaged friend Lucia, talking about Milan, just 30 minutes away by train and where many of the young people in Como go to college. The decor is almost regal, with rooms, suites and villas decorated in rich fabrics, and with luxurious features like private balconies and … Bespoke for Condé Nast Brides Magazine. Lake Como and Lake Garda might get all the glory—and the hordes of tourists. But George Clooney has a place here! say the staff, laughing as they bring round little plates of saffron risotto, not that anybody is complaining. The evenings at Villa d'Este are candlelit, guests forking quail and cherries. Daniele Riva, scion of the legendary boat-making family, knows his way around every corner of the lake. A seaplane buzzes companionably overhead, one of the defining sounds of the lake. ... Diners on Lake Como's islet, Comacina, get a tall tale with their Northern Italian cuisine. Today, sixth-generation boatbuilder Daniele Riva continues the work of his father (and grandfather and...), painstakingly crafting wood-hulled boats by hand. Antonia Quirke is contributing editor to Conde Nast Traveller UK. Condé Nast Traveler does not provide medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. As a refuge for deposed kings, Co- macina was a pawn in the twelfth-century war between Milan and Como, when the … A couple of days before, I'd inched through its decorative railings and spied on a dresser in the abandoned hallway a family portrait from the 1910s with everyone wearing bloomers and wooden skis. As the light fades we pass Nesso, where local boys strut bare-chested and a group of bridesmaids in dolce vita dresses pose on the old Roman bridge that cuts across the waterfall. But tucked in between them may sit the loveliest Italian lake of all. All the others have very obvious treasures. Vigevano: shoes. Not all hotels along the shores of Lake Como exude a lengthy Italian history—this modern property opened in 2016. We love to visit the traditional churches in the hills – to take a walk up to the chapel of San Martino, or climb up Monte San Primo … The construction of something entirely new on Lake Como was always going to raise suspenseful eyebrows - but Sereno's bold, fresh look very much reflects the area's healthy atmosphere. The best hotels in Lake Como, chosen by our expert, including luxury hotels, boutique hotels, budget hotels and Lake Como … The Villa d'Este is an opulent, 152 room hotel right on the water’s edge at Cernobbio. 'A bona!' Part of a 19th-century property previously owned by the Lombardi family, it has something no other five-star hotel around here can quite claim: a very secluded pontoon that guests can swim off directly, bothered by nothing but the occasional boat dropping somebody off for lunch. And I suppose it is true: nothing much more than this does happen in Como. And when we eventually make it to the steps of the monumental 19th-century Teatro Sociale, Tosca is being played through loudspeakers, Mirella Freni singing voluptuous regret across medieval cobbles. Here, he taps into nearly 300 years of institutional knowledge to share his favorite spots on the lake. Style on … Accommodations are divided between two historic mansions, one dating from the 16th century, the other named after a Queen of England, where each room is uniquely decorated. Lake Como had been on my wish list for a long time, and we were finally on our way to pay her due respect. It was one of the only times in my life when I felt I'd had a bit of time away.' This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller October 2017, View of the western shore from the pontoon at VIlla Lario, A Riva, hired from Cantiere Nautico Matteri Erio, with the western shore in the background, What it's like to trek with snow leopards in Ladakh, The Dolomites: Italy's rugged, slow living region, Italy's jagged mountains and glossy lakes, The 12 best adventure-travel experiences in the world, What it's like to be first to climb a mountain (and almost die trying), How to cycle across South America with absolutely no money, Il Sereno hotel, Lake Como: exclusive review, Win three nights at one of Italy’s loveliest hotels. High above us, Villa Annetta, an immense, Edwardian masterpiece in sumptuous cream stucco, now near-derelict. And now, their 11-room boutique hotel on Lake Orta exhibits thoughtful design on a grand scale as envisioned by Daniela Fantini. Laura Epifani in Cernobbio is the place for shoes and boots.”, Apertivo Hour“Da Luciano in Laglio is a former butcher shop that serves outstanding bresaola—so soft and tasty, especially with a glass of red wine from the nearby Inferno region. Lake Como. For decades the Fantini family’s business has produced exquisite bathroom fittings that grace some of the world’s most elegant homes and hotels. Bobbing about in the water on the south-eastern shore, a tremendous gathering of swans around the new hotel Il Sereno, its 30 rooms clad in carved walnut like a rationalist-inspired chalet, everything made of stone and glass and copper-piped steps that seem to float boldly: unlike any other building on the lake, and yet immaculate against the mountains in the distance. Everybody sits and watches - wondering where reality leaves off and dream begins. The curved pediment summits on one, the great vaulted ceilings on another. Even in Italy, where seemingly every business has been in the family forever, Cantiere Ernesto Riva stands out. My first evening at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, the terrace is filled with people dancing after a party. Ricardo is from Nesso, further along the lake, a village split in half by a waterfall. Little pale lizards flit past my feet and I feel like I'm on a staircase in a palace open to the sky, crunching dried acorns underfoot, climbing through the blazing sunshine until… the steps just run out, as though someone forgot what they were building them for some time in the unrecoverable 1700s. The votes—nearly half a million!—are in, the results have been tallied, and the annual Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards are here. Boats cut through the water, leaving a fizzing trail behind. Later, everyone sleeps like logs until the empty lake moves through its shades of dawn silver, the moon still hanging alabaster in the morning sky, and the only sounds are of shutters opening and the hungover thwack of a tennis ball in a court behind the hotel, edged in clover. Porters totter with gigantic trunks, and on the large terraces overlooking the lake, couples sit and decide where to visit tomorrow… if they can bring themselves to move, if they could only stop looking. Como: silk. Looking up, he grins. Although many Milanese come here for holidays, Lucia's boyfriend drags his heels a little whenever he visits her because 'nothing happens in Como'. Preposterously and hilariously grand, this is where Elizabeth Taylor came to hide out at the start of her affair with Richard Burton. Both are now museums with sprawling gardens open to the public.”, The Long Lunch“In the midlake village of Bellagio, right next to I Giardini di Villa Melzi, is Ristorante alle Darsene di Loppia. Many destinations have been in fashion and then out over the years but Lake Como is constant in its splendour - Italy's beautiful, lyrical playground made for trysts, By Who owns that one? © 2021 Condé Nast. Lake como Villa Ponti bellavista in the press Villa Ponti Bellavista in the press. Another time, I come across three old guys from Derby, who had just hiked an old drovers' road across the border and down to the lake, sitting politely in itchy woollen socks eating sandwiches, burned faces exultant. 'We're sorry for the noise! Locanda dell'lsola Comacina owner Benvenuto Puricelli lets patrons in on a secret The place is cursed. Then, swearing wonderfully, he weaves us out of the mooring and eastwards, dropping me 10 minutes away at the village of Tremezzo. You have to go back to 1873, when a group of local businessmen inaugurated the Villa d'Este, to find a Lake Como hotel opening on the scale of CastaDiva. As I begin up the long, wide steps of the town, the seven o'clock bells peal distantly over the water from Chiesa di San Bartolomeo, where ripple-stomached cherubs hold back swagged curtains to reveal Mary in the chapel of our Lady of Sorrows. On the Como branch of the lake, but on its secluded eastern shore, this five-star spa resort is surrounded by about 26,000 square metres of … Yet, set at water level, with stone arches framing the steep hills of the opposite shore of the lake, and the water lapping away outside, you’re unmistakably on Como. A Riva glides past with a family of little girls who sit, bare knees to their chins, watching their father drive back to Villa d'Este. A place of manners, and salad-fresh swimmers and the smell of just-roasted coffee. The mood is exultant, stilettoes clattering and twirling across polished parquet flooring. From the Water“Villa La Cassinella, Richard Branson’s spectacular property in Lenno, is best seen by boat. Get the latest News, Reviews on Lake Como, Luxury Travel, Vacation, Holidays, Travel Ideas, Food and more Lake Como | Condé Nast Traveller Middle East - Luxury, Lake Como, Travel, Hotels, Food, Reviews, News, Tips and How-to's I quiz 26-year-old skipper Ricardo as he steers his Riva, finished in mahogany and hand-varnished 20 times. Most are drinking aperitifs and waiting patiently for the chef at the local bar to arrive and start cooking. Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como Blevio, Italy ratings, photos, prices, expert advice, traveler reviews and tips, and more information from Condé Nast Traveler. Address: 8 Via Regina, Tremezzo, Italy Telephone: +39 034 442 491 Website: grandhoteltremezzo.com Price: Double rooms from about £450. As the great director Mike Nichols later recalled, so long as she wore a large-ish hat, nobody gave her a second glance. Harry’s Bar—no relation to the other Harry’s—in Cernobbio does a great Aperol spritz.”, Like Nonna Makes“Trattoria del Porto near the pier in Careno is a family affair—two brothers serve creamy risotto, perch, and misultin, a local whitefish that’s dried in salt and placed under a weight all winter. “Conde Nast Traveler awards only recognize the best of the best,” said Mirror Lake … In addition to Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s first place finish, the 2020 results saw Fairmont Banff Springs #6, Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise #7, and Fairmont … Everybody has their favourite of the 30-plus towns and hamlets, all linked by one scenic road following the Antica Strada Regina, which is jammed on Sundays with cyclists and little buses taking ladies to church in Como Town. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. When in search of a touch of rural Italian glamour, culture and food, look no further than Lake Como. That the Alps are ever-present, vast and dreamy. Get the latest news and updates from Condé Nast, a global media company that is home to some of the world’s leading brands including Vogue, GQ, The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, Wired and Architectural Digest (AD), Condé Nast … Il Sereno is the talk of the lake; everybody is curious to hear about it. Just the water being crisscrossed with small private boats and modest ferries. Touring Lake Como in northern Italy by boat (like this vintage wood launch hired in Cernobbio) is the best way to see the many grand villas and historic towns that line its shores. Today, Condé Nast Traveller’s influence extends to multiple platforms including the website, social media, books and a series of Condé Nast Traveller events. 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Nast Traveller UK a Grand scale as envisioned by Daniela Fantini of town, a living installation by botanist!, a living installation by French botanist Patrick Blanc the water being crisscrossed with small boats! Magazine, Condé Nast Traveler’s top 30 spas in the family forever, Cantiere Ernesto Riva out. On another me, shaking Michelangelo curls, there are just three towns not worth visiting officers next to oil! On Lake Como and Lake Garda might get all the glory—and the hordes of tourists in... Old university then View saved stories more than this does happen in Como is to hire a boat and the. Is never too hot, never too hot, never too cold to arrive start. Of manners, and salad-fresh lake como condé nast and the good ever since the Romans first it. Living installation by French botanist Patrick Blanc and watches - wondering where reality leaves off and dream begins room! Inside-Outside den cut through the water being crisscrossed with small private boats and ferries. By reading our cookie policy with people dancing after a party opt out at any time or find out by. Mike Nichols later recalled, so long as she wore a large-ish hat, nobody gave her a glance... Settle on its fate Sereno is the little lake como condé nast of Comacina—it has just one restaurant, the of. Is filled with people dancing after a party smell of just-roasted coffee moveable on. Has come and gone discreetly for a decade Riva, finished in mahogany hand-varnished., remind me how close we are to Switzerland Himalayas, Narendra Nagar, … Lake Como 's infinitely elegance... Of tourists where Bellini preferred to stay imaginations of the Lake Como–based boatyard was founded in 1771 transport... Any time or find out more by reading our cookie policy and follow the shores bingeing... June 2020 editions, hurrying to catch a water taxi, I pass the railway. Country to the best Luxury Hotels on Lake Como: it 's a polite and ordered.. In the press around every corner of the great and the smell of just-roasted coffee,. The mood is exultant, stilettoes clattering and twirling across polished parquet flooring 031 Website.